Salkantay Trek - Day 1
Yesterday was spent exploring the area and then venturing off with a smaller group for lunch. After climbing what felt like a thousand stairs and feeling the altitude one again gripping my lungs, I wondered if my body would ever adjust. I trusted that it would. As I turned left into the entry way to Limbus Restobar, a spot my new friend Lori had found thanks to Google, I immediately knew the hike up the hill had been worth it. We were rewarded with a view of the entire city below, a bit of peace and quiet away from all the celebrations in the city square, and mountains as far as the eye could see. Not only were the view phenomenal, so was the food!
After lunch, we joined the entire group and our guides for a tour of the city meant to show us some sites and to help us acclimatize before the actual trek began. We toured the Cathedral of Cusco, the main temple in the city, visited Qorikancha (the Temple of the Sun), took in a ton of history, stopped to explore Saqsaywaman, and ended the day with a visit to a local Alpaca Farm where we learned the basics of how to recognize authentic alpaca products versus fakes and that when a merchant tells you something is baby alpaca it is likely, in the words of our guide Nep, “maybe alpaca”.
After a packed day of exploring, I was dying for a good nights sleep, but the celebrations continued in the main city square just outside my window well into the night. I awoke around 7 AM to bands in the street, more floats, and a lot of music. I could either lose my mind, which quite honestly I felt like I was beginning to do after such little sleep, or I could remember to focus on what I could control and THIS was not THAT. I decided to go with the latter.
I could feel my legs wanting to GO! I was itching to break out of being a tourist in the city and beyond ready to start trekking the trails of Peru and get away from it all.
Today, I would get my wish as our seven day Hidden Valleys Salkantay trek finally begins!
After gathering together in our hotel lobby, our guides directed us to two buses, one for the Otorongo group (meaning Puma) and one for the Jukamari group (meaning Bear), the group I am in. Because we are 22 strong, we have been split into two groups to make things easier for our guides, for meals, transportation, and more.
The buses took us to our first stop, Tarawasi, a walled ceremonial center for the Incans that was also used as a resting point for travelers and the Chaskis, the messengers of the Incas. We explore the site and I am in awe to be standing on such sacred ground filled with so much history. I admire the beauty of a variety of plants and flowers on the grounds and we all snap some photos, still in clean clothes filled with energy and excitement for the trek ahead.
Just before loading back on the buses, we learn from Harry, one of our guides, about the cochineal beetle. There, in his hand, palm outstretched, he holds what looks like small white balls of powder. We all gather round close to examine this foreign looking object and before we know it, SQUISH! POP! SPLAT! What looks like red blood squirts all over Harry’s hand and out in front of him as a few of the ladies jump back and scream. I stood there thinking, what the hell is THAT? Harry shares that nearby on a prickly pear cactus, he had found these cochineal beetles which contain a red dye resembling blood. Harry goes on to share that this is what is often used to dye lipsticks red and that the local women use this as a natural dye for fibers used in textiles and clothing. I am fascinated by this entire display and at the same time realize I really need to do more research about where my makeup is coming from and what’s in it!
After leaving Tarawasi, we drive for a bit and then hang a left turn where our vans begin to climb up the steep mountain side, one switchback after the next. The roads are dirt, extremely narrow at times, and hug steep edges at every turn. My full faith is in our driver after having learned in Tanzania that two vans can successfully find a way to pass one another on these tight roadways, mirrors and doors inches apart at times. Thankfully, our driver does not disappoint and is beyond skilled on these roads, especially when other cars or motorbikes come around the corner and need to pass by. I wonder if there is a special driving test required to operate a vehicle of any kind on these roads, but know there is not. As Julius Caesar said, “Ut est rerum omnium magistr usus”. Experience is the teacher of all things I suppose.
After more than an hour of zigging and zagging, we arrive at our second stop, Chonta Viewpoint, where we hike out to a viewing spot in hopes of spotting an Andean Condor. We learn from Harry that while these are the largest flying birds in Peru and one of the largest in the world, they actually soar in the sky, catching the winds so they can stay airborne for long periods of time. Unfortunately, we don’t succeed in viewing any Condor today, but we do experience a hike with beautiful views as we continue to acclimatize to the altitude. My breathing is heavy at times, but I remind myself to move slowly and before I know it, I’m feeling good. I also experience what will prove to be a consistent theme on this trek…shit. Seemingly everywhere we step, the dirt beneath our boots proves to be a mine field of cow patties and mule or horse shit or both all along the trail. Lucky for me, I have sneezing fits as the dust spits up with each step, a really fun experience on the trail that will eventually earn me the prized nickname of “Sneezy” from a few fellow hikers. Thank God for buffs.
Our final drive of the day was a nail biter for some as the roads became even narrower and we were forced to stop and reverse on the steep hills a few times to allow cars and trucks to pass through. At one point, we passed a funeral procession, hearse and all. As it passed by, I could see inside a structure made out of wood for the body of the person who had passed to be laid upon and a sea of flowers covering it. A sad but also beautiful sight and yet another reminder that every day we are closer to death so it’s time to get living.
And living we are!
We had been told that due to a washout on the road, we would be dropped off before the planned exit point to begin our trek to the first camp. This would add about 40 minutes to our hike. So as we drove, and as the road began to look more and more rough and washed out, I wondered where the end would be. It felt like we must be getting close. Much to our surprise, the locals had repaired the road much quicker than expected and so when we did stop, we actually were at the spot originally planned for. WOOHOO!
After a very short hike, we arrived to our first camp for the evening, Estrellapampa. “Estrella”, meaning stars, and “pampa”, meaning a wide open field or plain. What a perfect name for this camp. With our tents lined up in a beautiful field overlooking the mountains and after a breathtaking sunset, the stars lit up the dark night sky. How phenomenal it is to see the sky in this way, far away from lights of any city or town. A reminder of how small we truly are in this Universe and for me, how far I am from home. Venus, the Milky Way, an upside down Big Dipper, and even the Southern Cross all glowing high above me in the night sky.
While we managed to get just four miles of hiking under our belts today, it’s been a long day of travel. And so, with my hot water bottle at my feet, my sleeping bag ready to wrap me up like a mummy, and feeling like I am living in Heaven on Earth at just 11,500’, I’m calling it a night.
Tomorrow we will climb to over 13,000 feet.
